We are a small kitchen company with entirely proprietary products. The products are developed by carpenters with extensive experience in both carpentry production and on-location assembly work for our customers. This knowledge and experience is used to ensure our kitchens are as easy to assemble as possible.
Our production takes place today in a well-developed modern carpentry shop with knowledgeable employees. This production environment, together with continued product development is the central focus of Funkiskök today. It follows that we no longer undertake any assembly or renovation work, but we have full confidence that you as our customer will find a suitable contractor. In some cities in Sweden, and through our dealers, we can often recommend craftsmen who we know can handle assignments in a flawless manner. If craftsmen want to ask us questions during the actual assembly work then we are happy to help and will be available by phone or email by appointment.
1. The foundation for a successful kitchen assembly is reasonably smooth walls and floors that are as level as possible. Start off by drawing/snapping some guides on the walls and floors so that you get a good overview of how your kitchen cabinets should fit.
2. Även om det känns väldigt naturligt att börja med bänkskåpen ska du försöka undvika detta och börja med överskåpen. Dels har du lättare att komma till och lyfta och placera överskåpen om inte bänkskåpen finns där, dels förhindrar du att damm och grus från borrningen ramlar ner i dina bänkskåp och på de känsliga utdragsbeslagen. Provborra nu i dina väggar för att säkerställa vilket material du har i väggarna. I äldre väggar hittar vi oftast tegel eller så kallade kloasongvägg (brädvägg med puts). I tegelväggen behöver du en bra plastplugg gärna ca 80 mm lång. I en kloasongvägg kan det fungera fint att bara låta skruven dra rakt in bräderna. Förborra skåpen i de bärlister du hittar inne i skåpen och på de ställen där du tror du får bäst fäste i väggen. Som hjälpmedel kan man montera en list på väggen där överskåpens underkant kan vila när man håller upp skåpen mot väggen.
2. When it's time to mount the cabinets it best to begin with the wall cabinets rather than the base cabinets. This will make handling the wall cabinets easier and you'll avoid dust and gravel from drill holes falling into your base cabinets and onto sensitive drawer slide fittings. Now do a test drill into your walls to establish what material you have in the walls. In older walls we usually find brick or board wall with plaster (dividing wall). In the brick wall you need a good plastic plug preferably about 80 mm long. In a dividing wall, just screw straight into the boards. Pre-drill the cabinets in the mount brackets inside the cabinets and corresponding places in the wall where you think you will get a sturdy attachment. As an aid, you can mount a molding on the wall where upon the bottom edge of the upper cabinets can rest when holding the cabinets up against the wall.
3. If you have a row of cabinets these need to be joined in some way. The easiest way is to use a 35 mm screw. A wall cabinet that is 900 mm high needs about five attachment points at its sides to attach nicely with adjacent cabinets-three points towards the front, two at the back. Measure and mark carefully so that all drill holes align. It is enough that you pre-drill in one cabinet with a 3 mm drill. Use a clamp to hold the cabinets together while fastening the screws.
4. Once all the wall cabinets are in place, it is time to start with the base cabinets. Plinth feet screws for our base cabinets are packaged seperately to avoid damage during transport or collection. Flip the cabinet on its back so that you can access the screw couplers on the underside of the cabinet. Screw in the plinth screws so they protrude about 20 mm. Raise the cabinet up. Lift the cabinet into place carefully so that the plinth screws do not crack or damage.
Now lay out the base cabinets along the wall(s). Adjust the plinth screw feet so that the cabinets reach a height of about 870 mm. If you have a filler piece for one of your base cabinets, it may need to be adapted to the oncoming wall with the help of a planer or jigsaw. Filler pieces are then fastened by screw from the inside of the edge of the cabinet. Here too, it is possible to pre-drill with a 3 mm drill using ~35 mm long screws.
Make sure that the base cabinets are orientated correctly so that the visible side goes all the way down to the floor. If you have several base cabinets in a row, these need to be joined together in some way. The easiest way is to use a 35 mm screw. A base cabinet needs about three attachment points per side to join together nicely with adjacent cabinets. Measure and mark carefully so that all boreholes end up in the same place. It is enough that you pre-drill in one cabinet with a 3 mm drill. Use a clamp to hold the cabinets together while joining them.
Sometimes the walls are not level and it may be necessary to put shims at the back edge of the cabinets. When making adjustments keep your worktops in mind so depths don't become too small. It can be good to try to get the entire row of base cabinets up along a wall before you start attaching them. This will make it easier to detect any adjustments you have to make. Use soft clamps to join the cabinets with. If you have a dishwasher panel check so that adjacent cabinets are flush with the it.
Once everything is checked, you can start attaching the base cabinets to the wall. All our base cabinets have rear mounting brackets. In our cabinets with drawers, detach the drawer using the orange fittings attached to the underside of the drawer. When assembling the drawer, it is very important that the fittings click-fasten properly on both sides. Mark and pre-drill the cabinets where you think you will get the best attachment to the corresponding wall. Use an 80 mm plug for a brick wall, otherwise screw straight in to the wall. Keep in mind that the slide fittings for the drawers are greased with sliding grease. If you get gravel or dust into these, it can be very difficult to get them clean again with poorer performance as a result. As a precaution cover them as with plastic.
5. All base cabinets come with a separate baseboard (toe kick). These are delivered in descending lengths and are 120 mm high. Check carefully that you have enough baseboards for the base cabinets. If you have an built-in dishwasher, it is usually best to position the baseboard seam on the next cabinet. When adjusting the height of the base cabinets, ensure at least 120 mm of free height between the floor and bottom of the cabinet. When this is not possible, the height of the baseboard is adjusted with a planer or circular saw. Next, attach the outer painted board to your base cabinets. Use a discreet screw and high as possible attachment point, for concealment.
6. Worktops and sinks are best fastened with right angle brackets so they can still move a little. If you are going to mount a stove or sink to your worktop, follow the manufacturer's instructions. It is important to apply silicone or other sealer to the sawn edges before installation. This is to prevent moisture from penetrating the edge and causing the core material to swell.
We hope these tips help you with your cabinet installation and results in as nice and functional a kitchen as possible. Good luck!
Download these instructions in PDF format.